floral

Glitter Club at Christopher Shannon

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Christopher Shannon, Menswear, SS14, London.

The Spring-Summer 2014 collection by London designer Christopher Shannon was part candy coloured street styling and part monochrome deconstruction. Men’s wear classics like shirts, t-shirts, slouchy shorts and wind breakers were worked in chintzy florals, sheer rubber and denim, and all offset by hair caked in glitter.

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Honeycomb Details at Alexander McQueen

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Alexander McQueen, SS13, Paris.

The recent Alexander McQueen collection was intensely detailed, with minute fabric layering and honeycomb peephole details. The Spring-Summer 2013 under the reign of Sarah Burton centred around the idea of the bee hive, and the concept was the driving force behind structural and textural details as diverse as exquisite mesh, bee brocades and over blown flowers.

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Experiments in the 2nd Dimension at Comme des Garcons

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Comme des Garçons, AW12, Paris.

For her Autumn-Winter 2012 collection for Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo presented a very flat collection that called into question the very nature of the way we view fashion. As a comment on the way that we generally view collections as endless catwalk thumbnail images the garments were made out of very thick felt, giving the appearance of paperdolls playing dress-up, and making the garments perfectly suited to only being viewed front on.

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Incredible Feathered Headpieces at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe, SS12, Paris.

The Japanese designers seem to have a way of conjuring up new fantasy headwear each season and pairing it with delicate models and deadpan facial expressions. This season was no exception with Junya Watanabe displaying feather hair sculptures with flashes of unusual tones and hues to offset the floral repeats that embellished the garments.

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Effortless Lace and Embroidery at Valentino

Valentino, Couture, SS12, Paris.

There are some designers who can take an idea or a technique that has been used time and time again, and can bring their own freshness to them to use the techniques in new and beautiful ways. Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, as the creative directors at Valentino, are finding ever more intricate ways to work with lace, and lace-like effects to build ethereal collections.

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Panels, Pleats and Florals at Celine

Céline, RST12, Paris.

Phoebe Philo’s Resort 2012 collection for Céline has proved to be a nice extension of some of the ideas that she presented in the Autumn-Winter 2011 collection. The rounded leather shapes, reminiscent of automotive upholstery, are remixed with brighter colours, while the multiple panels used in AW11 are given a new dynamic with the addition of diagonal lines and the addition of sheer fabric panels.

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Double Edged Symbolism at YSL

Yves Saint Laurent, RST12, Paris.

It would be easy to view the recent Resort 2012 collection by Stefano Pilati on a purely superficial level by simply enjoying the summery nautical theme and dreaming of future holidays. The first half of the collection enjoys a myriad of ways to wear an anchor motif, almost acting as a lesson in the principles of design as we see how to change the scale, design, colour and materials of a symbol in order to maximise it’s use across a collection.

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