The Cutting Class

construction techniques

Raglan Details at Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler, SS12, New York.

Sleeve shapes and panelling are a subtle yet directional way that designers are controlling the feel of their collections. The raglan sleeve in particular has enjoyed a renaissance over the past few seasons as both a reference to the couture and the athletic. Raglan variations have been visible on broad kimono style sleeves as well as on raglan sleeve styles that cut in close over the curve of the shoulder, often using a seam up the outside of the arm to take in the shaping over the sleeve head, where a traditional set-in sleeve would look more square.

Quilting, Beading and Embroidery by Maria Parsons

Maria Parsons, MA Graduate Collection 2011.

The leap from concept to realised design can be one of the most difficult for student designers. Some students try to make entire labour intensive collections by themselves, and can feel frustrated that they do not have the specialist expertise, or the time, required to complete the work as they had envisioned. For others the learning curve is in how best to communicate their work so that a professional can help to construct their garments, make their fabric or embellish their designs.

Exquisite Details at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier, Couture, AW11, Paris.

There are some designers who create clothes that have a great sense of movement, often through the sheer volume of fabric used in the garment or the amount of space between the body and the garment, or even through the lightness of the fabric that enhances the movements of the models.

Carefully Constructed Shoulders at Armani Prive

Armani Prive, Couture, AW11, Paris.

It is commonplace for designers to develop altered silhouettes and construction techniques that carry throughout their collections. The good designers (and those with teams of skilled crafts people) have the ability to take that detail and blend it away, so that the viewer isn’t distracted by the subtle change in silhouette. This allows for the viewer to absorb the other colours, prints and surface embellishments that become the focal points of the collection.

Borre Akkersdijk: Reappropriating Industrial Machines

Knitting 3D Patterns, a documentary on the work of Borre Akkersdijk.

The way of the future for fashion is not simply through new designs but also in rethinking the industry including all aspects of how we use, wear, make, recycle, market and sell our clothes.

Manipulating for Menswear: Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson, Central Saint Martins MA, AW10.

While the realm of menswear can often appear more limiting than womenswear, there are still so many experiments to be had by manipulating the fabrics and materials to create new textures.

Convertible Lapels at Umit Benan

Umit Benan, Menswear, SS12, Milan.

There was a certain nonchalance about the Spring-Summer 2012 collection from Umit Benan that gave the Cerruti-inspired suiting a relaxed and very wearable feel. The jacket shapes and pleated trousers were classic and retro in cut, and hung with the sort of oversized silhouette, that leaves the body room to move without appearing overly boxy or unflattering.

Piping at Prada

Prada, RST12, Milan.

Among the many carefully chosen details from the Prada Resort 2012 collection, the collars, plackets and yokes were often defined with a piping trim. Piping is an excellent way to add definition to garment edges and seamlines as it forms a subtle 3D edge, perfect for small hints of contrast colours.

Tailoring Techniques Exposed at Margiela Couture

Maison Martin Margiela, Couture, AW11, Paris.

There is an incredible process involved in building the structure of a bespoke tailored jacket, and for the Autumn-Winter 2011 Couture collection from the Margiela team the structure was on display, sandwiched between layers of sheer fabrics and completely visible from the outside of the garment.

Velvet Covered Boning at the House of Worth

House of Worth, Couture, AW11, Paris.

Boning is a structural material most commonly used hidden away inside garments to form cage-like structures that support the body or the garment. It is a material often associated with corsetry, where boning is often inserted into channels in the fabric or enclosed under bias binding in strips that run vertically up and down the torso, moulding to the curves of the figure.

The Secret Life of The Sewing Machine

“The Secret Life of the Sewing Machine”, video still.

Watch the video below for an amazing explanation of the inner workings of the sewing machine. The video is an episode from an educational series presented by Tim Hunkin and Rex Garrod entitled “The Secret Life of Machines”.

Fundamentals of Pattern Making: Princess Panel Lines

Roksanda Ilincic, RST12, London.

Princess line is the name commonly given to panel lines that go through bust point, absorbing the dart value into the panel line. The panel line commonly curves from the armhole, down to the waistline through bust point, or from the center of the shoulder down through bust point to the waistline.

Godet Panels on Skirts and Dresses at Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll, RST12, London.

There are different ways that fabric can be contracted to curve to the body, or enlarged to create volume. One way of creating fullness and volume in a skirt or dress is by inserting panels into the fabric and these are commonly known as godets.

An Intimate Documentary on the Work of Helen Rodel

Video still from “Estudos MMXI”, 2011.

It happens too often that the most authentic fashion stories and behind the scenes characters are kept hidden away out of the limelight, so it was refreshing to see the beautiful documentary about Helen Rödel which so perfectly captures all the colour and energy that has gone into her carefully crafted pieces.

Fundamentals of Pattern Making: V-Shaped Panel Lines

Gareth Pugh, AW11, Paris.

In the Autumn-Winter 2011 collection by Gareth Pugh, there was a subtle v-shaped panel line running across the front panel pieces, that echoed the placement of trims and geometric embellishment on other pieces from the collection.