Glossary: Cuffs

Glossary: Cuffs | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of cuffs on the bottom of trousers at the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2014 collection. Cuffs are sometimes cut as a separate panel, or at other times they may be cut out of the main panels of the garments and then simply rolled or folded up.

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Glossary: Yoke

Glossary: Yoke | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of how yokes are used to give shaping as seen in the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Chanel. In this example yokes are used across the back of the shoulder area and across the back of jeans.

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Glossary: Drawstring

Glossary: Drawstring |The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

An example of an unusual use for drawstrings as seen on the tops of shoes from the Miu Miu collection for Autumn-Winter 2014. These shoes also show an example of a casing, which is a form of channel that holds the drawstring in position.

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Glossary: Herringbone

Glossary: Herringbone | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Example of fabric with a herringbone weave pattern from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Balenciaga. Herringbone appears as a pattern detail in garments and fabrics in a variety of different scales. The fabric in the example shows a very small scale version of the herringbone.

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Glossary: Topstitching

Glossary: Topstitching | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW14, Milan, Image 1.

Prada, AW14, Milan.

Example of topstitching from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Prada. In the example, topstitching has been used on the sleeve seam as well as on the patch pocket. In this example the topstitching appears to be both functional and decorative.

Notice that the topstitching here has been sewn as a twin stitch, with two lines of stitching running parallel. A thicker thread and longer stitch length are also sometimes used for topstitching to make the threads more prominent.

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Glossary: Open Ended Zipper

Glossary: Open Ended Zipper | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo, Image 1.

Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo.

Example of an open ended zipper from the Autumn-Winter 2012 collection by Anrealage. Open ended zips are often used as a closure at the front of garments such as jackets. This example would also be classified as an “exposed zipper” due to the fact that it is clearly visible, and is not hidden under a fold of fabric.

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Glossary: Back Vents

Glossary: Back Vents | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Christian Dior, AW14, Paris.

Example of back vents from Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Christian Dior. Vents such as these are sometimes referred to as “double vents”.

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Fine Details and Contrasting Textures at Céline

Fine Details and Contrasting Textures at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW14, Paris.

Céline, AW14, Paris.

The Céline collection for Autumn-Winter 2014 used a muted colour palette to explore small garment details and finishing touches that included hairy centre back trims, chunky jewels and contrast buttonhole stitches.

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Glossary: Quilting

Glossary: Quilting | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW14, London, Image 1.

Christopher Kane, AW14, London.

Example of quilting from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Christopher Kane. Quilting can be used in varying scales and works well here in what appears to be a nylon fabric.

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Glossary: Bias Binding

Glossary: Bias Binding | The Cutting Class. Rodarte, AW14, New York, Image 1.

Rodarte, AW14, New York.

Example of bias binding from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Rodarte. Bias binding has been used here as a contrasting satin edge finish that becomes shoulder straps.

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Watching Details Move Through Time at Anrealage

Watching Details Move Through Time at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo.

Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo.

In the same way that some of the Futurist artists used stuttering lines to indicate speed and movement, Japanese label Anrealage was able to give the impression of blurry human movements, seen as though captured through the passing of time for the Autumn-Winter 2012 collection.

At first some of the garments trick the viewer into believing the photos are out of focus, with exaggerated silhouettes enhanced using prints and patterns that blur on the edges. However the effect is created through carefully considered print placements and precise pattern cutting.

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Loose Shapes and Wayward Dots at Jacquemus

Loose Shapes and Wayward Dots at Jacquemus | The Cutting Class. Jacquemus, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Jacquemus, AW14, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2014 collection for Jacquemus had a naive and chunky quality to it with oversized silhouettes that swam around the bodies of the models, and organic polka dots that floated across the garments.

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The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 3

The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves Part 3 | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, AW13, New York.

Alexander Wang, AW13, New York.

This post forms the third part of a series about The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves (read Part 1 or Part 2). In the first two posts we talked about how you need to make certain decisions about the fullness and angle of your sleeve. In this post we will talk about how you can then use seams, darts, gathers and tucks to shape the sleeve and body pieces of your garment.

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The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 2

The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 2 | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga Sleeves.

Balenciaga, unknown date, images via Pinterest»

In this post we will begin to look at how the angle of the sleeve affects the drape of fabric in the underarm area. We will also consider how the distance between the garment underarm and the actual underarm of the body will affect the amount of arm movement that the wearer has.

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