Glossary: Quilting

Glossary: Quilting | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW14, London, Image 1.

Christopher Kane, AW14, London.

Example of quilting from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Christopher Kane. Quilting can be used in varying scales and works well here in what appears to be a nylon fabric.

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Glossary: Bias Binding

Glossary: Bias Binding | The Cutting Class. Rodarte, AW14, New York, Image 1.

Rodarte, AW14, New York.

Example of bias binding from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Rodarte. Bias binding has been used here as a contrasting satin edge finish that becomes shoulder straps.

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Watching Details Move Through Time at Anrealage

Watching Details Move Through Time at Anrealage | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo.

Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo.

In the same way that some of the Futurist artists used stuttering lines to indicate speed and movement, Japanese label Anrealage was able to give the impression of blurry human movements, seen as though captured through the passing of time for the Autumn-Winter 2012 collection.

At first some of the garments trick the viewer into believing the photos are out of focus, with exaggerated silhouettes enhanced using prints and patterns that blur on the edges. However the effect is created through carefully considered print placements and precise pattern cutting.

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Loose Shapes and Wayward Dots at Jacquemus

Loose Shapes and Wayward Dots at Jacquemus | The Cutting Class. Jacquemus, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Jacquemus, AW14, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2014 collection for Jacquemus had a naive and chunky quality to it with oversized silhouettes that swam around the bodies of the models, and organic polka dots that floated across the garments.

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The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 3

The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves Part 3 | The Cutting Class. Alexander Wang, AW13, New York.

Alexander Wang, AW13, New York.

This post forms the third part of a series about The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves (read Part 1 or Part 2). In the first two posts we talked about how you need to make certain decisions about the fullness and angle of your sleeve. In this post we will talk about how you can then use seams, darts, gathers and tucks to shape the sleeve and body pieces of your garment.

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The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 2

The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 2 | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga Sleeves.

Balenciaga, unknown date, images via Pinterest»

In this post we will begin to look at how the angle of the sleeve affects the drape of fabric in the underarm area. We will also consider how the distance between the garment underarm and the actual underarm of the body will affect the amount of arm movement that the wearer has.

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The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves: Part 1

The Fullness and Shaping of Sleeves Part 1 | The Cutting Class. Céline, SS14, Paris.

Céline, SS14, Paris.

There have been a few questions posed to The Cutting Class recently about sleeve shaping, so this post is the first in a series that has been put together to take a different look at sleeves. The focus will especially be on the fullness created around the armhole area and will help you to think about where exactly the fullness and shaping is distributed through a few different styles of sleeves.

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A Nod to Process at Vionnet

A Nod to Process at Vionnet | The Cutting Class. Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris.

Vionnet, SS14, Demi-Couture, Paris.

In his first collection working on Demi-Couture at Vionnet, Hussein Chalayan created a range of garments that worked with pleating and layers of sheer fabrics often embellished with cords and metal hardware. There was also a nod to the pattern making process with fabric prints that resembled pattern making paper.

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Lacing, Quilting & Tucks at Dior

Lacing, Quilting and Tucks at Christian Dior | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, AW14, Paris.

Christian Dior, AW14, Paris.

With clear, bright colours and clever silhouettes the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection for Christian Dior featured new twists on quilting, sneaker style lacing and a variety of uses of tucks to control fullness, shaping and volume.

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Clever Pattern Making Details at Kenzo

Clever Pattern Making Details at Kenzo | The Cutting Class. Kenzo, AW14, Paris.

Kenzo, AW14, Paris.

Hidden amongst the clashing colours and prints of the Kenzo collection for Autumn-Winter 2014, there were some clever pattern making details including crisscrossed lapels and panels that folded back on themselves to create peplums and collars.

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Woven Panels and Bursting Ruffles at Comme des Garçons

Woven Panels and Bursting Ruffles at Comme des Garçons | The Cutting Class. Comme des Garçons, SS14, Paris.

Comme des Garçons, SS14, Paris.

For the Spring-Summer 2014 collection from Comme des Garçons there were familiar techniques such as padding and overblown ruffles in monochrome and candy pink. There were also some looks that used a cage-like structure to emphasise the silhouette, and some sweeping panels that wove in and out to create interlocking details.

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Contrast Binding and Organza Layering at Prada

Contrast Binding and Organza Layering at Prada | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW14, Milan.

Prada, AW14, Milan.

Each season Miuccia’s Prada collection sits within a specific colour palette, within a certain range of fabrics, plays with a certain range of design details and usually poses some new styling questions as well.

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Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen

Fairytale Fabrics at Alexander McQueen | The Cutting Class. Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris.

Alexander McQueen, AW14, Paris.

Treading that fine line between fashion and costume, the Alexander McQueen collections always use fabrics and detailing in a way that seems otherworldly. For Autumn-Winter 2014, Sarah Burton’s collection involved embellishment and textile work that blurred the lines between fabric, feathers and fur.

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9 Collections in 1 at Christopher Kane

9 Collections in 1 at Christopher Kane | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW14, London.

Christopher Kane, AW14, London.

There are few designers who serve up as many ideas in a single collection as Christopher Kane and this was especially true for the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection which featured and combined everything from ruffles and gathering, to crystals, laser cut laces, floral motifs, clever pattern cutting, pages of organza and a play off between nylon and fur.

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Separating Pattern from Cut at Proenza Schouler

Separating Pattern from Cut at Proenza Schouler | The Cutting Class. Proenza Schouler, AW14, New York.

Proenza Schouler, AW14, New York.

Viewing catwalk collections digitally can be restrictive when it comes to collections which are highly patterned, as the colours and patterns can obscure the panels and darts used within the garments. This was true for the Proenza Schouler collection for Autumn-Winter 2014, which provided a good case for separating the silhouettes from the fabrics.

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