Glossary: Sequins

Glossary: Sequins | The Cutting Class. Givenchy, AW14, Paris.

Givenchy, AW14, Paris.

Example of flat, long sequins used to embellish a garment from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Givenchy. We commonly think of sequins as being the circular, cup-shaped style, but sequins come in many different shapes, sizes and textures and can be layered to create different effects.

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Balance, Proportion and Focus at Craig Green

Balance, Proportion and Focus at Craig Green | The Cutting Class. Craig Green, Menswear, SS15, London.

Craig Green, Menswear, SS15, London.

The praise and hype surrounding the recent Craig Green collection for Spring-Summer 2015 will inevitably be balanced by snide remarks about how people can’t wear their bed frames and sheets to the shops when they just want to go pick up a pint of milk. For this reason, and as part of an analysis of the Craig Green collection, it is a good opportunity to consider the different ways that a collection is viewed and appreciated.

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Glossary: Appliqué

Glossary: Appliqué | The Cutting Class. Christopher Shannon, Menswear, SS15, London.

Christopher Shannon, Menswear, SS15.

Examples of appliqué used on garments at the Christopher Shannon collection for SS15. In this example the appliqué appears to be attached using different methods. At time the shapes appear to be attached using topstitching, while other sections appear to be attached using a fusible backing.

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Glossary: Splits

Glossary: Splits | The Cutting Class. J. W. Anderson RST15.

J. W. Anderson, RST15.

An example of splits in a tailored jacket from the J.W. Anderson Pre-Collection for Spring-Summer 2015. Splits are often used on the hems of skirts to help the wearer to have more movement when walking. While splits or vents are often used in the back of jackets, they have been used here as an extension of the front panel lines.

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Fabrics and Details from Chanel’s Supermarket

Fabrics and Details from Chanel's Supermarket | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

It would be easy to be distracted by the supermarket set and the accessories wrapped in plastic at the Chanel show and miss out on a chance to see how the attention to detail extended to the fabrics and garment construction. From cinched waists and geometric quilting to ring pull brooches and chanel security tags, the collection was filled with tiny details. And this is even aside from spotting the “CC” logo and any use of tweed, chains and pearls.

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Glossary: Yoke

Glossary: Yoke | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of a yoke as seen in the Chanel collection for Autumn-Winter 2014. In this example the yoke panel line is used to attach the additional, free floating panels into the front of the jacket.

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Glossary: Fastenings

Glossary: Fastenings | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

An example of an unusual fastening detail from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Balenciaga. Aside from the usual button and zip closures you can also use clips and lacing hardware to experiment and create new closures for your garments.

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Glossary: Eyelets

Glossary: Eyelets | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Example of eyelets from the Balenciaga Autumn-Winter 2014 collection. In this example the eyelets have been used along the edge of the neckline and laced with a fine cord.

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Fabrics and Hardware at Balenciaga

Fabrics and Hardware at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Balenciaga was filled with innovative textile details punctuated with unusual uses of zips, eyelets and branded belt plates.

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Glossary: Epaulettes

Glossary: Epaulettes | The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

The term “epaulette” seems to traditionally refer to the decorations which would be fastened to the shoulder straps on military uniforms. Over time the term has come to refer to the shoulder straps themselves, which are often found as a detail on coats and trenches.

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Glossary: Exposed Zipper

Glossary: Exposed Zipper | The Cutting Class. Louis Vuitton, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Louis Vuitton, AW14, Paris.

Example of exposed zipper from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Louis Vuitton. Zip has black zipper tape with chunky metal teeth and branded “LV” zip pull.

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Glossary: Dropped Shoulder

Glossary: Dropped Shoulder | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Jacket with a dropped shoulder seam line from the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2014 collection. In this example, the position of the armhole seam is hidden by the weave of the fabric.

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Glossary: Cuffs

Glossary: Cuffs | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of cuffs on the bottom of trousers at the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2014 collection. Cuffs are sometimes cut as a separate panel, or at other times they may be cut out of the main panels of the garments and then simply rolled or folded up.

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Glossary: Yoke

Glossary: Yoke | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of how yokes are used to give shaping as seen in the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Chanel. In this example yokes are used across the back of the shoulder area and across the back of jeans.

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Glossary: Drawstring

Glossary: Drawstring |The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

An example of an unusual use for drawstrings as seen on the tops of shoes from the Miu Miu collection for Autumn-Winter 2014. These shoes also show an example of a casing, which is a form of channel that holds the drawstring in position.

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