Fabrics and Hardware at Balenciaga

Fabrics and Hardware at Balenciaga | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

The Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Balenciaga was filled with innovative textile details punctuated with unusual uses of zips, eyelets and branded belt plates.

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Glossary: Epaulettes

Glossary: Epaulettes | The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

The term “epaulette” seems to traditionally refer to the decorations which would be fastened to the shoulder straps on military uniforms. Over time the term has come to refer to the shoulder straps themselves, which are often found as a detail on coats and trenches.

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Glossary: Exposed Zipper

Glossary: Exposed Zipper | The Cutting Class. Louis Vuitton, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Louis Vuitton, AW14, Paris.

Example of exposed zipper from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Louis Vuitton. Zip has black zipper tape with chunky metal teeth and branded “LV” zip pull.

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Glossary: Dropped Shoulder

Glossary: Dropped Shoulder | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Jacket with a dropped shoulder seam line from the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2014 collection. In this example, the position of the armhole seam is hidden by the weave of the fabric.

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Glossary: Cuffs

Glossary: Cuffs | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of cuffs on the bottom of trousers at the Chanel Autumn-Winter 2014 collection. Cuffs are sometimes cut as a separate panel, or at other times they may be cut out of the main panels of the garments and then simply rolled or folded up.

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Glossary: Yoke

Glossary: Yoke | The Cutting Class. Chanel, AW14, Paris.

Chanel, AW14, Paris.

An example of how yokes are used to give shaping as seen in the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Chanel. In this example yokes are used across the back of the shoulder area and across the back of jeans.

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Glossary: Drawstring

Glossary: Drawstring |The Cutting Class. Miu Miu, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Miu Miu, AW14, Paris.

An example of an unusual use for drawstrings as seen on the tops of shoes from the Miu Miu collection for Autumn-Winter 2014. These shoes also show an example of a casing, which is a form of channel that holds the drawstring in position.

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Glossary: Herringbone

Glossary: Herringbone | The Cutting Class. Balenciaga, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Balenciaga, AW14, Paris.

Example of fabric with a herringbone weave pattern from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Balenciaga. Herringbone appears as a pattern detail in garments and fabrics in a variety of different scales. The fabric in the example shows a very small scale version of the herringbone.

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Glossary: Topstitching

Glossary: Topstitching | The Cutting Class. Prada, AW14, Milan, Image 1.

Prada, AW14, Milan.

Example of topstitching from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Prada. In the example, topstitching has been used on the sleeve seam as well as on the patch pocket. In this example the topstitching appears to be both functional and decorative.

Notice that the topstitching here has been sewn as a twin stitch, with two lines of stitching running parallel. A thicker thread and longer stitch length are also sometimes used for topstitching to make the threads more prominent.

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Glossary: Open Ended Zipper

Glossary: Open Ended Zipper | The Cutting Class. Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo, Image 1.

Anrealage, AW12, Tokyo.

Example of an open ended zipper from the Autumn-Winter 2012 collection by Anrealage. Open ended zips are often used as a closure at the front of garments such as jackets. This example would also be classified as an “exposed zipper” due to the fact that it is clearly visible, and is not hidden under a fold of fabric.

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Glossary: Back Vents

Glossary: Back Vents | The Cutting Class. Christian Dior, AW14, Paris, Image 1.

Christian Dior, AW14, Paris.

Example of back vents from Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Christian Dior. Vents such as these are sometimes referred to as “double vents”.

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Fine Details and Contrasting Textures at Céline

Fine Details and Contrasting Textures at Céline | The Cutting Class. Céline, AW14, Paris.

Céline, AW14, Paris.

The Céline collection for Autumn-Winter 2014 used a muted colour palette to explore small garment details and finishing touches that included hairy centre back trims, chunky jewels and contrast buttonhole stitches.

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Glossary: Quilting

Glossary: Quilting | The Cutting Class. Christopher Kane, AW14, London, Image 1.

Christopher Kane, AW14, London.

Example of quilting from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Christopher Kane. Quilting can be used in varying scales and works well here in what appears to be a nylon fabric.

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Glossary: Bias Binding

Glossary: Bias Binding | The Cutting Class. Rodarte, AW14, New York, Image 1.

Rodarte, AW14, New York.

Example of bias binding from the Autumn-Winter 2014 collection at Rodarte. Bias binding has been used here as a contrasting satin edge finish that becomes shoulder straps.

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